In Odessa: Naked May Day

Lev froze. The cold returned, but it wasn't the honest cold of the sea. It was the cold of a police station waiting room. Of a fine. Of a record. Of having to explain to the library director why he was detained for “petty hooliganism.”

They ran along the water’s edge, past the rusting hulks of old fishing trawlers. The violinist began to hum a tune—a jaunty, folkloric melody. The accountant stopped covering himself and started to laugh, a real, guttural laugh that echoed off the sea wall.

But for the first time in ten months, he wasn’t looking for the shore. He was just floating. Waiting for the trouble to pass. Waiting for the May sun to get a little higher.

The first warm breath of May had finally melted the stubborn ice on the Potemkin Steps. For most of Odessa, this was the signal for Mayevka —the traditional spring picnics, the shashlik smoke curling under the chestnut trees, the first day it was acceptable to drink white wine outdoors. Naked May Day in Odessa

No one cheered. There were no spectators. The old Soviet sanatoriums above them were empty, their windows like dead eyes. The only witness was the Black Sea, grey-green and indifferent.

When he surfaced, he was twenty meters out. The two militiamen were arguing with the weightlifter. The violinist was already dressed, walking away as if she’d just been admiring the view. The accountant was peeking from behind his rock, still laughing.

He ran not from shame, but into a strange, liberating cold. The air licked every inch of him—his soft belly, his thin shins, the nape of his neck. It was as if he had been wearing a lead coat his entire life and had just shrugged it off. The pebbles bit his bare feet, a sharp, honest pain. The salt spray hit his chest. Lev froze

So at dawn on May 1st, Lev stood shivering on the pebbles of a forgotten beach below the Vorontsov Lighthouse. He was surrounded by a dozen other citizens of varying ages and shapes. A retired weightlifter with a tattoo of Brezhnev on his bicep. A violinist from the opera house, her long hair doing the work a silk robe usually did. A nervous young accountant who kept his hands clasped over his groin as if protecting a state secret.

Then they heard the whistles.

“Ready?” called the weightlifter. He didn’t wait for an answer. He just started jogging. Of a fine

For Lev, it was the day of the Naked Run.

And he smiled. A small, secret, ridiculous smile. It was a good day to be alive in Odessa.

“The run is over!” the first one shouted. “This is a public beach! There are families!”

Lev treaded water, his toes touching nothing. He was naked, bobbing in the cold, black sea, a stone’s throw from the motherland. He had lost his shoes, his pride, and his last shred of anonymity.